![]() A 60° tilt angle promotes proper wrist, arm, and shoulder alignment to maximize comfort and minimize potential strains. Upgrade to ergonomist-approved comfort and premium cursor control with Kensington's Pro Fit® Ergo Vertical Wired Trackball. Use the default settings or download KensingtonWorks software to set pointer and scrolling options and professionally customize nine buttons to tackle common tasks with one touch.įeatures a button to eject the trackball for easy cleaning. Never worry about batteries or wireless interference. Provides more accurate and smooth cursor control, and allows you to easily switch between DPI settings for different cursor speed control. Reduces learning curve when transitioning from a mouse to a trackball. That info tripped me up when I was doing it, and I hope can help the next person who comes across this post.Promotes proper wrist, arm, and shoulder alignment to maximize comfort and minimize potential strains. You have to remove this in order to access the 5th screw you need to remove the housing of the mouse. It's not actually glue but double sided tape, and in addition to that, there are snaps that keep it in place. It's a narrow piece of plastic that spans from the LEDs at the rear to the LED at the front. Step 3: The top cover that the guy is referring to is the piece of plastic that sits under your thumb during normal usage. I thought it was just one screw under each pad. The left pad will have 2 screws under them. ![]() Step 1: When you flip the mouse over, there's 4 pads, 3 of them have screws under them. That said, I want to amend a couple of the guy's steps above, in case anyone else comes along and wants to try: IDK much about electronics though, so maybe that's wrong, all I can say is I didn't see anything I could do to fix it. When you spin the scroll wheel, it looks like you spin a little metal disc that has small prongs jutting out, and those prongs were wearing down another metal disc that acts as the receiver for the signal. I took everything apart, down to the potentiometer that the scroll wheel uses, and saw that there was a lot of wear between the 2 parts of the potentiometer, but no dirt. I did give it a try, but I didn't see any dirt that I could clear out. I just don't know what I would need to get, a sensor or w/e it is that I'd need. Anyways, I've got somewhat nimble fingers, if I can replace a part easily, or even with a little kajiggering and soldering, that would be fine too. If you want to know anything else, just ask, idk what else is relevant to share here.Įdit: Is it possible to easily replace the switch or sensor or whatever it is that detects scrolling on this mouse? It looks like this is not an uncommon issue, and it also looks like I'm outside the 2 year warranty window (I assume i have 2 year warranty, it doesn't say anywhere on the web that I could tell). Now for my relevant stats: I'm on win 10 on a 3 or 4 year old t470 lenovo thinkpad, I'm connecting to the computer via the wireless dongle, and the trackball is within 12 inches from the usb receiver with unobstructed line of sight. It's so infuriating though, it's not consistent, and it's such a chore that I've started using the PgUp and PgDn keys on my keyboard to navigate. Sometimes it will, in fact, scroll down the amount of clicks I've input. ![]() If I scroll down, it'll scroll down then up. ![]() It never seems to do exactly what I want to do. The action on it is not great, but that would be bearable if the behavior on the computer was anything near what I expected. IDK if this is trackball hardware issue, software issue, or an issue with the computer that I'm connecting to, but the scroll wheel is absolute ass.
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